I knew I was a bit early, even though my watch had stopped about a year ago, so I wasted a bit of time in Soundscapes before I jogged through the pouring rain to Xacutti. Kim was already there when I arrived. The waitress took my dripping jacket to the basement as I squeezed into the closely-neighboured seat to check out the restoratives. No joy for the beer-lover, but Kim picked out a nice Shiraz that we wouldn’t have gotten if it weren’t my birthday.

As the be-suited mobs started trickling in, we certainly started to feel like we were not cool enough for this place (which, perhaps ironically, made us feel better about ourselves). It was refreshing, however, that the waitstaff here lacked the annoying attitude you’d expect to find in this type of restaurant. We were somewhat amused that our order was tapped out on a palm pilot. I guess those $30 entrées have to pay for something.

First up was the pan-seared salmon, wee rolls of cooked-through fish with a puff of batter around the outside. The menu claimed some relation to tandoori, but I couldn’t taste it. The tangy miso sauce added a nice, smooth flavour, however.

The spicing on Kim’s halibut was a bit more subtle than I expected (and I don’t think the fish really has enough flavour to warrant restraint), and, while it was perfectly good, I could see how it would be difficult to maintain interest in it through an entire entrée.

I got the cardomom-smoked lamb. Four interlocking chops arrived rarer than ordered, but that was fine given their healthy size, and as I’ve said here before, too rare is far better than overdone. They were served with an absolutely gorgeous chutney. The mild spicing (anise was the most identifiable flavour) offset the flavour of the lamb perfectly. Also on the plate were some unremarkable veggies, a rosti that I would not describe as exciting, but still good, and a mash that, though the taste was fine, had that too-smooth texture that conjured up far too many memories of the elementary-school cafeteria.

Xacutti’s website throws around a few random quotes about food, one of which is “Conversation is the enemy of good wine and food,” attributed there to Alfred Hitchcock. They certainly seem to have taken this one to heart, for though the mirrored walls and high tin ceilings look nice in the relative peace of the nearly empty restaurant, as it started to fill up, they helped to create a sonic mosh pit that made actually talking to one another next to impossible. After a few “What?” “What?” exchanges, we gave up and communicated only as was dictated by necessity.

I thought it a bit odd that a menu that seems excited about its relation to Indian cuisine doesn’t have more of a kick to it, but, even given the toned-down spices, the food was good, with a few standout surprises (that amazing chutney being at the top). Really, though for those prices, and given the mildly painful experience of actually being there, I think this will be a one-time visit.